Sankuanz Men’s Spring 2022

Shangguan Zhe’s coed collection for spring seems less angst-ridden than last season’s, when the impact of the coronavirus pandemic parlayed into metallic spike and chain details. There’s metalwork in this season’s garments, too, appearing on jackets, skirts and trousers, but those feel more decorative in nature.

Metal hooks loop through eyelets to hold together strips of black patent leather in a long, streamlined jacket, for instance.

The theme of the spring collection is “Bells From Another China” and meant to represent youth culture through Sankuanz’s aesthetic and gender-fluid lens.

Sankuanz RTW Spring 2022

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It worked. Zhe presents a wide variety of looks that somehow fit together well. A gray tweed jacket with gold-colored buttons and a matching skirt seemed as much in his vein as a look made of wide jeans coupled with a printed T-shirt and oversize white, buttoned sweater.

The designer plays a lot with textile techniques and colors. Some of the fabrics he fashioned were made of recycled plastic bottles. An ultramarine hue, nodding to traditional Chinaware glazes, made some shirts and skirts pop.

The fashion film presenting the collection was shot in a circular building, where models walked along the arced corridors. Zhe had in mind a modern Tower of Babel or a giant bronze bell of yesteryear, chiming well with this season’s theme.


Sankuanz RTW Spring 2022

Sankuanz Men’s Fall 2021

Sankuanz RTW Spring 2021

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